Some of this focus can be traced to a returning interest in textured hair. The “Curly Girl method”, where you wash only with conditioner (or “low-poo” sulphate-free shampoo), has seen a surge in popularity. This Hair of Mine Scalp Serum (£46) – with pea peptides to stimulate follicle regeneration and “microbiota friendly” apple stem cells to soothe irritation – is useful for non-curlies too. Scalp‑focused brand Monpure’s Clarifying Scalp Scrub (£48) is essentially an exfoliator and uses biodegradable jojoba beads.

Monpure Clarifying Scalp Scrub, £48 for 90g

La Bonne Brosse No 2 The Essential Do-It-All Brush, £120

Notting Hill-based hairdresser Gustav Fouche’s Fabulosity range of shampoos and conditioners (from £35) also focuses on hair “nutrition”. Fouche has created a five-point system with differing ingredient levels to offer more or less moisture or protein to the hair. Depending on individual requirements, you might need more Cupuaçu butter, to promote moisture retention, or rice aminos to keep hair elastic and prevent breakage.

One hundred strokes a day is still the best way to stimulate blood circulation

Some stylists still swear by good old-fashioned brushing. “It stimulates the scalp, makes the hair shine and, if done regularly, prevents breakage,” says LA-based Ric Pipino, who considers it a long-term habit for improving hair strength. He chose to launch his own line with a hairbrush – a dual-bristle paddle brush. To make best use of the Large Pro Brush ($110), he advises a strong hold and “vigorous brushing” all the way through the hair – “do it at night if you plan to wash the next morning”. Parisian brand La Bonne Brosse has launched four brushes (£120 each) for different hair types at Harrods this November. Founders Flore des Robert and Pauline Laurent argue that the golden rule still holds true: “One hundred strokes a day is the best way to stimulate blood microcirculation in the scalp and remove pollution particles and residue,” says Laurent.

Living Proof Triple Bond Complex, £42 for 45ml

Hair by Sam McKnight Deeper Love Hair Treatment, £48 for 200ml

Typically an enemy of long-term hair health, the hairdryer has been reconstructed. When the Zuvi Halo (£329) launched last year, it was trailed as “the Tesla of hairdryers” – but isn’t every hairdryer electric?! It has won plaudits for its use of infrared light, to minimise damage to hair (it dries the hair’s surface but avoids dehydrating the hair cortex) and to limit energy use. Hershesons’ The Great Hairdryer (£295) also has hair-protection technology that emits oxygen for softer, shinier results.

Sam McKnight has expanded his range to incorporate the “care” part of haircare too. His Deeper Love Hair Treatment (£48 for 200ml) aims “to make hair more resilient” and to that end contains proprietary ingredients Rep’Hair, for strengthening, and Crodabond, which should seal 50 per cent of split ends from first use.

This story originally appeared on: Financial Times - Author:Lauren Hadden

The cause can be a whole host of things, says Amina Ajayi, who spent 15 years as a cosmetic scientist before launching her own skincare line, 1611 Labs. There are the usual challenges such as UV light or pollution, “but also issues such as over-exfoliating your skin, particularly with acids, or putting too many different products on the skin.” And winter’s one-two punch of cold weather and central heating can exacerbate already dry and inflamed skin. It can be hard to isolate a particular cause; as with many skin complaints, by the time you’re experiencing the symptoms the damage is often already done.

“If you think your skin barrier may be compromised,” says Ejikeme, “the first thing you need to do is stop anything that is harsh on the skin. So pull away from retinoids or skin acids, ensure that you’re not over-washing and make sure to switch to a mild and gentle cleanser, even a milk-based one.” I’ve personally found two cleansers in this category: old reliable Cetaphil (£9.49 for 236ml) as a make-up remover, which should suit even the most sensitive skin, and Augustinus Bader’s The Cream Cleansing Gel (£54 for 100ml), which is used with water but isn’t foaming or exfoliating.

This is actually a lightweight moisturiser. It can be used day and night and is highly spreadable so only one pump is required for the entire face and neck. “It’s your moisturiser, your hydrator, the one product I would recommend to anyone,” says brand founder Amina Ajayi. “I call it a ‘hug in a bottle’. Comfortable on the skin and targeted at sensitive skin types, it’s been developed to treat and prevent inflammation.” Ingredients include ceramides to prevent water loss, niacinamide, squalane – a natural component of sebum, which strengthens the skin barrier – and extract of centella asiatica to refine skin texture. £70 for 30ml; 1611labs.com

Fjör Hydrolytic Serum

The Swedish bioscientists who created this serum were looking to create a microbiome-focused product to help rebalance bacteria that can contribute to acne, psoriasis, eczema and other inflammatory conditions. It contains just 12 ingredients – the key ones being a hydrolytic enzyme (to “deactivate” bacteria on the skin while keeping natural microbiota healthy and thriving), hyaluronic acid, collagen and peptides. Marketed as gender neutral (though I would argue the case for that for every product here), the brand says it eliminates the need for other moisturisers, toners or serums, other than sunscreen. £97 for 30ml; fjor.life

OTO 7-day Glow Treatment

If your skin likes oils, this is the reset for you – an at-home facial aimed at stressed skin that looks lacklustre and tired. The ampoules, which are used twice daily, contain CBD, hyaluronic acid, nourishing squalane oil and frankincense essential oil (a powerful anti-inflammatory) to hydrate, revitalise and rejuvenated stressed out skin. £99 for 14 ampoules; otocbd.com

Chantecaille Jasmine and Lily Healing Mask

This cooling mask was specifically formulated to protect skin from overexposure to the elements. Ingredients include sodium hyaloronate (with similar properties to hyaluronic acid) and vitamin B5 for their soothing, moisturising properties, as well as lily bulb to soften. Use twice a week and leave on for 10 to 20 minutes or overnight, as a rich night cream, for increased results. £80 for 50ml; chantecaille.co.uk

Balance Me Ceramide Barrier Booster

“This new targeted treatment has been incredible at restoring balance and boosting hydration to even the most sensitive of skin,” says brand co-founder Clare Hopkins. “The formula has a powerhouse combination of three types of ceramides, cholesterol [another key ingredient that makes up the “mortar” of skin] alongside another fascinating ingredient: phytosphingosine. This stimulates the upper layers of the skin to produce more ceramide so that skin can protect itself better.” It also contains tiger grass to reduce the appearance of redness or itching, and oatmeal to soothe. Hopkins recommends it for skin prone to redness, dryness or acne, or for anyone experiencing sensitivity. £33 for 30ml; balanceme.com

Kaeā The Rescuer Multi-Essential SOS Balm

This really is a balm for everything bar, perhaps, the soul – and the reassuring scent of that oldest of human sweeteners, honey, almost takes care of that too. I use it for chapped lips, roughened elbows, some mild dermatitis on my hands and for those little irritations around the mouth that young children are prone to in winter. It can also be used after shaving or for windburn. The key ingredient is antibacterial UMF 15+ Mānuka honey from Tahi, off the coast of New Zealand, along with botanical concentrates such as Kawakawa Leaf extract and Harakeke Seed oil, rich in essential fatty acids. £95 for 30ml; kaeaskincare.com

Rhug Wild Beauty Protecting Facial Oil

For retinol fans who can’t bear the thought of giving up completely on acids over the winter, the gentler alternative bakuchiol is an option. It’s the key ingredient in this facial oil, alongside hemp oil, wild foraged sorrel (from the Rhug Estate in Wales), vitamin C-rich pomegranate oil and nourishing jojoba oil, to help reduce inflammation and regulate oil production. £80 for 30ml; rhug.co.uk

This story originally appeared on: Financial Times - Author:Lauren Hadden

But beyond that, it’s all to play for. And the beauty industry likes to start ’em young. Once upon a time, “clean”, everything-free skincare was the concern of those dealing with vexatious issues such as childhood eczema – standard-setting brands such as Green People (founded in 1997) were a lifeline for parents. Now discerning buyers study ingredient lists as a matter of course.

Hermès’s scent recalls ‘the apricot-like scent of a child’s cheek’

When Olivia Chantecaille and Barbara Sturm had children (both, coincidentally, in 2014), they were always going to be interested in what was going near that pristine skin. Baby skincare lines weren’t far behind – Dr Sturm’s “Mini Molecular” Baby & Kids Baby Bum Cream, with marigold extract and zinc, £20; and Chantecaille Bébé’s Orange Blossom Face Cream, £40 – and other brands soon followed.

Chantecaille Bébé Orange Blossom Face Cream, £40 for 50ml

Dr Barbara Sturm Baby & Kids Baby Bum Cream, £20 for 75ml

Bamford Organic Baby Balm, £24 for 50ml

Hermès Cabriole eau de senteur, £82 for 50ml

Bamford’s Baby Balm (£24 for 60ml) is the sine qua non of a certain variety of baby shower, with its do-it-all reputation giving it a cult quality reminiscent of the grown-ups’ Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. Bonpoint, the French children’s clothing label, has a moisturiser (£70 for 50ml) and a mission to “awaken children to developing a sense of self-care”, says CEO Pierre-André Cauche. The company has long had skin in the game (so to speak). It launched its first children’s fragrance back in 1986 – Eau de Senteur (£50 for 50ml) – and cosmetics represented 30 per cent of company sales in 2021. It’s adding to its beauty offering with a shampoo and a hand cleansing gel on the way in time for Christmas.

Even Hermès has put its formidable nose, Christine Nagel, to the task of creating a scent for children – alcohol-free, of course. Cabriole (£82 for 50ml) combines Osmanthus, honeysuckle and sandalwood in a scented water that recalls “the apricot-like scent of a child’s cheek”. 

This story originally appeared on: Financial Times - Author:Lauren Hadden