More than 200 years old, Cleveland Pools suffered years of neglect — and was once used as a trout farm — but has been restored to its former glory

Helen Barrett — Sat, 17 Sep 2022 00:00:51 +0000

Bath is full of secrets, well-kept by its citizens. Decades ago, I borrowed a basement flat in one of its Georgian terraces, the cellar of which led to a seemingly infinite system of subterranean passages that ran beneath the pavements. At night, I would lie awake near the centre of this Unesco World Heritage city, listening to the local teenagers screeching and cackling from its flagstoned depths.

When I learnt that Britain’s oldest open-air lido had stood mostly derelict and overgrown on Bath’s fringes for nearly 40 years, I was keen to see this secret, too. The Grade II-listed Cleveland Pools first opened in 1817 and later in the 19th century was run by the eccentric Captain Evans, who had a pet baboon, held spectacular gala parties and apparently would impress onlookers by diving into the pool from a great height, wearing a tall hat to protect his head. After latterly being used as a trout farm, restoration efforts began in 2003 and on September 24 the pools are finally due to reopen to the public once more.

I head east of the historic heart of the city, past the Lovelywash Launderette. Beyond, down an alleyway off a residential street and next to the River Avon, lie the pools.

This story originally appeared on: Financial Times - Author:Helen Barrett

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More than 200 years old, Cleveland Pools suffered years of neglect — and was once used as a trout farm — but has been restored to its former glory